Fudaano

On Monday, the day before Tobaski I got something called “fudaano” done on my hands. It is kind of like henna. It was a day long process. It was decided (without me really) that I should do it during the day on Monday, even though people usually do it before they go to bed before the night. But the following day was Tobaski and everyone would be too busy to help. So at around 11 I ran to go to the pit latrine not knowing when I would have my hands available next to go. Then they took the roll of medical tape they sell specifically for this process and laid out strips of it on a plate. They then proceeded very laboriously to cut small strips with a flimsy, one dalasi razor blade. After they would get one strip cut it was applied around my fingers, about four or five strips were spaced apart starting from my fingertips and going back. Jalika started out doing this, then Adja took over, and Njemmeh our neighbor and the young boys watched.
After both hands were done they usually will tape some kind of design on the palm, but after attempting it with star stickers (wouldn’t stick) then the tape (still wouldn’t stick, hands too sweaty!!) we did a quick star pattern on the back of my hands. After that was all done it was time to apply the fudaano, which is some sort of small tree leaves, dried then pounded. This is mixed with water and made into a paste consistency. Then it was applied on top of the tape around the fingers and on the backs of my hands They also did a traditional splotch on my palm requiring no tape. It is sort of like covering your hands in thick strange smelling mud. After Ndea applied it she took strips of plastic bags and covered up the fudaano, tying it around my fingers and hand. Each finger was separately tied, but then a whole plastic bag was put over my hands and tied to my wrists. Immediately my hands started to sweat even more and then they asked me if I had any socks. So I had to lead Jalika into our bedroom (usually off limits) and have her rummage through my underwear and sock bag to find a pair. These were fitted over my plastic bag hands and then suddenly I was all alone.
Andy was out at work and as soon as they were finished the place was quiet. All I could do was sit or lay down. I had to make it until five o-clock and was counting down the hours. But of course, me being me, mid way through I had to use the pit latrine. Well, I won’t go into details, but lets just say it was freakin hilarious for Andy and I. When Andy had come home I was just laying face up on the bed in the front room with my hands up in socks looking like a sad burn victim. Adding to my helpless feeling was the thought that it wasn’t even over after this part was finished. After lunch I was finally able to fall asleep to pass the time and at around five o’clock Jalika came tearing across the compound to get me. Then Ndea and Jalika and other bystanders unwrapped me and flung off most of the paste. Next was some small mysterious bagged substance which was mixed with water making it into a grey smelly mixture. It was of course then applied to the parts of my hands that had fudaano on it. I was happy and relieved to find out that I only had to keep this on for an hour or so and I could keep my hands unwrapped. This was so much better that I had thought. I had misinterpreted and thought that this second application would have to stay on over night. When we finally washed it off my hands were wrinkly and pasty white and the parts with the fudaano were a lovely red color. Cool. I immediately had ideas for designs for the next time and am excited to try it again, only this time over night. Later on the same night I did get a chance to practice on someone else when Jalika came over looking for the tape. Andy suggested we use duct tape and I cut it into strips and quickly did one of her hands with finger stripes. Then I cut more strips and made a cool (if I say so myself) sun design on her palm. The next morning she showed me and it looked good! Well, it will eventually wear off and then we will get to do it all over again, but this time I will be more mentally and physically prepared for the process! After we come back from Guinea we will post a ton of pictures! Promise :)

Sorry for the lack of blogs lately, life is cruising right along. The weeks between have been filled with us putting a lot of time into getting things finished before we have to go out of town. Last Wednesday, we left to come to the main city and spent a few days doing typical American things in this unlikely setting, like playing softball, (preparing for our tournament in Dakar in February), eating Thanksgiving dinner, having an “Open Mic” night where volunteers displayed there vast array of talent. We had a general good time, but because of all the activities and lack of real down time we came back more tired than before. But, a bonus on that part was that we got to stay in someone’s house and of course their bed was infinitely more comfortable than our who-knows-how-old-foam mattress. We got back from the fun filled weekend on Sunday, and Sunday is a Study night in the compound, so I was busy with that for a few hours. This week is jammed because all the real work for the next month has to be done this week, being that next week is Tobaski, and no one seems to really know if they will be going to school at all next week. For us, the following week we will be traveling and then it will be Christmas and New Years time. The whole month is shot already as far as work.
My duties this term, even though I am not teaching classes now, is to still participate in the observation of the student teachers. The third week in November I was one of four that made the long journey up to the last region in the country, the furthest east you can go. Our task was to observe about fifty students in about 12 schools. Which may not seems like that big of a deal, but when you have to go four wheeling through the bush and ask a lone farmer in the field exactly which dirt track is the one that goes to a particular school, it is pretty tiresome. Needless to say, no air conditioning, and lots of dust with dry season. A good thing about this trek was that I had excellent sleeping accommodations because there is a peace corps transit house for volunteers to stay when they are traveling.
Well, after leaving Brikama Sunday, finishing the week of observations, Friday morning finally came. We left Basse at around 7:30 and did not get back to Brikama until 12 hours later. Three hours were spent trying to negotiate a place in the extremely lengthy car line to get on the ferry. All I wanted to know was, Where is the bridge?! When we pulled beside the compound door I could hardly wait to un-mangle my body from the seat and was extremely happy to back home, I love Brikama!
Along with this type of observation trek, we are responsible for observing students in our immediate area. I have nine students at the school I am attending to. And this week I have been trying to finish with their observations for the term. Going to these schools are extremely draining. Imagine you, lone toubab, walking through a sea of children all calling you “toubab”, just to get to the classroom you need to go observe a student in. Yesterday I had to be around for the dreaded …..
Break time.
This is when every single student in the school is out amongst the entire expansive school grounds doing whatever they want with no adult supervision. Now imagine having to walk through these hundreds of students to cross the school grounds as the only white person. Trying to hold your head up and be a professional that deserves respect even while they are calling you this name and asking, then demanding, everything from candy (minty) to shoes, to bottles.
Well, just one more day of observations today, then I will take a nice long break.
People are very busy preparing for Tobaski, the market is filled with even more vendors than normal, everyone is desperate to make some money to go out and buy a ram. Our host father recenlty traveled to Senegal and brought back with him a huge ram, it is so tall, it is a little scary. It is tied up to a mango tree near the cooking area and is constantly making a gutterl bah sound. With the compound so full this year, if every family gets a sheep or goat, we are going to have a meat festivist. But at least this time I can be prepared, and have my goat stew recipe ready!